Mom and pop shops that develop film are scarce and as a result, the only place we can develop are the drug stores that are few and far between. Along with the cost of film, you have the cost of AND RISK of developing film. Can a person really justify the cost of a good film camera when we are worried about its future? And long with that, the realization that this medium is not going to last forever. As the demand for film decreases, the cost goes up. The stock of filming is depleting.So when you digitize the images (unless you're using a high quality scanner), you run into the problem you had in the first place, which is wanting the feel of film. Film photos and prints are absolutely beautiful when done right but if you want to share them with friends, you need to have a scanner (good ones aren't that expensive) which uses a CCD sensor to scan the images. The last part to sharing your film shots come when you have to scan them via a scanner. The risk comes when you have some new hire at the store who is clueless about using the machine and can screw up the development of your film.
![]() ![]() ![]() You can do it yourself with any decent camera and proper backlighting. Any decent photo lab would be able to scan them in for you, but it can take a bit of time and money (it would be $0.65 to $1 a frame in my neck of the woods). I'd recommend the SE models over the 7400 / 8100, simply for the addition of infrared for dust & scratch removal (unless you take great care of your negatives and clean them before scanning then it's not as much of an issue).If you aren't in a rush, I'd recommend setting up price trackers at camelcamelcamel for Amazon, and camelegg for NewEgg (that's where I got my 7400), and perhaps a deal alert at SlickDeals (and that's where I FOUND the deal on the 7400).EDIT: The Canoscan 9000F MkII that dtanist mentioned is ~$160 at Amazon right now.>The issue is that we have no idea if a regular developer will be able to get them developed.If you can see them, they're already developed.As for digitizing them, you'll hae a couple options: There may be some still lingering around the replacements are the OpticFilm 81i SE. - "It's good- for the price") reviews from various tech / photo blogs.My thoughts on the 7400: It lacks hardware dust & scratch removal, and it definitely isn't fast, but if your negatives are clean and you aren't in a rush, its image quality is good.Actually, though, it looks like those two models were replaced earlier this year. I picked up a 7400 in October of 2012 for $170 it had very solid reviews on B&H, and fair (i.e. They'll come with template inserts for various types of film and have appropriate backlighting built in. An Epson V600 or CanoScan 9000F II would be good models to look at. You can find dedicated ones for different sizes, but for archival purposes, I always recommend a flatbed with appropriate inserts. My preferred route is through the use of a film scanner. Some simple tweaking in photoshop will get you pretty desirable results (if you can't work photoshop, and want to go this route, let me know and I can do the tweaking for you). If you were to hold it flat, with even light all across from behind, and use a high resolution camera. Then you can spread you light sources so wide they won't reflect as much.By that point, if you aren't working to large, it's easier to just scan and use a white balance card. Black felt behind the art. The only way to avoid that is to make a whole elaborate setup. Sometimes the dark pencils (the ole' 9b) can get reflective, particularly when you mix media and they are drawn on a dark surface. I use a canoscan 8600f but I believe they have updated the model to the 9000. Camera connect app for macTry your best to make sure there are no hot-spots of light because that is the most difficult to adjust later.I can go into more detail on fancy pants rigs if needed.I bought this handheld scanner and it works great. Cell phones won't have the best camera for shooting the art but you gotta use what you gotta use.Just remember, even with a white balance card, the most important thing is making sure the lighting is EVEN. Any reflections, you can edit out to make it match the real values of the drawing._Dead's suggestion with the shade is the best method for shooting on a larger scale and don't have the resources for a fancy pants setup. The quality is top notch and it saves in either PDF or JPG at Lo (300dpi), Medium (600dpi), or Hi (1050dpi). You can however inspect it on the small display of the scanner, it will at least help determine if it scanned at an angle or if anything was cut off. Like another poster said slight movements can be aggravating, but most of the time the scanner auto corrected the movement and the rescan I did was unnecessary.No need for a computer as it uses a microSD card for storage, some would see this as a pro or a con since they can't view the image on a monitor. The scans are limited to 8.5" wide, but can go on indefinitely as far as I can tell.TaoTronics® 1050 DPI 1.44'TFT Color Display Colour & Mono Handheld Scanner for Document, Photo, Reciepts, Books + JPG/PDF Format SelectionI've also used Genius Scan+ through all of college and genealogy work in a pinch. Viola, high resolution scan. Take multiple swipes of the piece, a poster say, and then stitch the multiple files in Photoshop later. Here's what I've used.However you scan your books, ScanTailor will clean them up really nicely for you. But I'm in a field where we use a lot of old, rare literature (hooray biology) and to bring the literature out of the library, I have had to digitize documents. ($174.84)Canon CanoScan 9000F MKII Color Image ScannerEfficient? Nah. A huge plus is that it can neatly scan negative strips with an included accessory. A computer is required and I need multiple power outlets, but it has the best scan quality by far. (Free/$6.99)And I use this scanner for when I have no carry restrictions. Canon Canoscan 9000F Mkii Photo, Film And Negative Scanner, Flatbed Software Built InPrice: $250 or so, or check your local libraries and colleges or universities. Scans still take a while, but they do have software built in that will rotate every other page, so you can scan the left side, turn the book 180, scan the right side, flip the page, and continue on your merry way. Derp.) Price: Fuh-fuh-free! Woohoo!There are some flatbed scanners designed with a zero-bevel edge to optimize book scanning, like this one here, that can pull double duty as a conventional flatbed scanner and take up slightly more room than a conventional flatbed. Check out this before and after! (I cut off the text at the bottom of the image.
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